Driving
with Lockers:
Is Parallel Power Really Easier?
by Bill
Burke
Although
both my D-90 and my Range Rover have lockers, I want those
that I am training to understand how to drive without using,
or actually getting used to, lockers. Granted ARB lockers
are great; switch them on whenever you need them and the
rest of the time they are off!
I have always
taught that it's best to learn how to negotiate the
terrain without lockers so you get the finesse of
4-wheeling down.
Understand the dynamics of
the vehicle and its handling characteristics on- and
off-highway, then start to add the goodies. Yes, I own Air
Lockers now but I cut my teeth on posi-traction and Detroit
Lockers. Try driving Detroit's front and rear with 35's and
no power steering!
While you negotiate rough
terrain, the suspension and your "line" will not always
allow you to have smooth contact with the ground. At some
point, the tire will catch air or lose full proximity with
the ground, causing the tire to spin. Remember Murphy's Law,
the tire with the least amount of traction gets the most
amount of power. You will hit moguls, come off rock ledges
with two tires and attempt hills with very loose soil. This
is where lockers really come in handy.
Once you've purchased a
set of lockers and had them installed, here is a short
course on how and when to use them. Whether you have air,
electric or mechanical lockers, limited slip, posi-traction
or whatever, the techniques are generally the
same.
First: be careful
on side angled (off-camber) hill sides; i.e., the vehicle is
traveling on a side slope. If it is mucky, icy, snowy or any
other type of slippery-slidey side slopey slope, use open
diff, if possible. Lockers will tend to "walk" you sideways
down slope. This is because both wheels are rotating at the
same speed. If one wheel is "static" and the other is
rotating, the static one will act as an anchor or stabilizer
that will keep the rig from slipping sideways. When on these
side slopes, let the vehicle idle across, giving the tires a
chance to dig in and get the best traction.
Second: when going
up hills or any incline, aim straight up. The weight shift
to the rear will give you added traction so the locker in
the rear is advantageous. WATCH OUT for the front end,
though! The tires will have a tendency to catch ledges and
occasionally loose soil and "walk" the front end around
either left or right, causing the rig to get sideways on a
hill. Then if you PANIC, give it gas, and don't come out of
lock, you could roll over.
I usually get lined up for
the ascent, approach cautiously, engage the rear locker and
start the climb. Depending on the terrain, rock ledges,
sand, loose granite, mud, etc., I will then engage the front
locker once I feel control of the steering and front end
traction have been attained (gut feeling!). About halfway up
the incline, I'll engage the front locker. If you don't have
air lockers, be careful of the front end walking! No matter
how hard you try to steer, with the front end being light
due to gravity pushing on the rear, you MUST modulate the
throttle carefully. Remember, minimal tire spin. Soft tires
(low pressure) helps here.
Third: when going
downhill, be careful that the rear end does not swing around
and meet you in front! I like using both front and rear when
going down hill. It allows all tires to have traction,
resisting the "breakaway" feeling. Engine braking is very
important here and having all four tires helping makes a big
difference. Sometimes when in open-diff rigs going downhill,
the two tires (1 front, 1 rear) that are holding the rig
back, hit loose soil or get air, allowing the rig to "lurch"
forward--I call this the "lurch effect"--and it'll scare the
heck out of you. Sometimes light pressure on the brake pedal
will work, but I don't like using the brakes on the trail
unless absolutely needed. Using engine compression with
lockers is most advantageous 'cause all 4 tires are adding
traction and resistance.
Fourth: steering is
hard to do especially on hard surfaces like slick-rock,
granite faces and boulder outcrops. When you are on a "bind"
(no not binge!), the lockers will hinder your turn. You need
to disengage the front end (ARB) and "bump" the throttle to
allow slack in the gears to disengage the lockers. With
mechanical, you need to play the throttle softly to allow
the turn. Sometimes when I come out of an obstacle, the rear
end will "steer" me straight even if the front is unlocked.
So, if I can I will disengage (ARB) the rear as well. The
Detroits will clank and bang, the Lock-Right will click and
clack, but it's the best you can do. When I did have
mechanical lockers, I would run the front end unlocked, the
hubs free, in 4WD low using only the rear end and the
mechanical locker in the rear. Then when I needed to "get to
it," I would lock the hubs in! In mud and soft dirt/sand,
the rear locker will steer you straight, even though you are
turning the front tires! Again, throttle steer using some of
the finesse at the foot. Let the tires slow down, then blip
the throttle to "pull" the front end around.
Note: Air lockers can be engaged anytime
they're needed. Just don't be spinning the tires. Engage
them moving or not; disengage them anytime, but you need a
moment of slack to make sure they unlock. Having lockers
means you need to pay more attention to the vehicle and its
handling characteristics. Add big tires aired down to 12 psi
and it takes some finesse to make turns and keep the vehicle
aligned. Driven responsibly, lockers are a great help. They
actually reduce environmental abuse due to all four tires
helping, not just two spinning.
©Bill Burke’s 4-Wheeling America LLC
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True
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