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Easter Jeep
Safari:
How to do Moab During Spring Break
By Bill Burke
 Part
III Getting on the Trail...
In Part 2, I gave you some
ideas about the vehicular and physical needs for attending
the Moab Easter Jeep Safari. This is not only for the EJS,
but any trail run you attend--no matter where!
Since writing this series,
I've received countless emails offering many opinions about
the EJS. There are a few that really bothered me! They
mostly stemmed from the cost of the event, whether running
one trail or several. The logistics of putting on such a
large event is mind boggling to say the least. Try
registering 1900 vehicles, supplying coffee and donuts for
3000 people, dash plaques, trail ribbons, t-shirts, scouting
routes, obtaining permits from land managers all in a week's
time! The cost of gas has risen, the cost of doing business
has risen, the cost of land use defense and politics has
risen! So the "good 'ol days" when the event cost $3.00 are
long gone. Realize what the Red Rock 4-wheelers are really
doing--raising funds to help keep the roads less traveled
open for all of us! As far as Land Rover and Hummer owners
being the only ones able to afford the event (as mentioned
in one email), look at the numbers. I saw only a handful of
those vehicles in attendance. The event is the Easter "Jeep"
Safari; 97% of the vehicles in attendance were Jeeps. It is
still an inexpensive good time for good clean (well, almost
clean) fun! Those who choose to take time to 'put down' the
event should make better use of their time to write their
congress people and senators to help keep the back roads
open! To show your support contact: Red Rock 4-Wheelers
Inc., PO Box 1471, Moab, UT 84532-1471.
Now onto the 4-wheeling
part of this article.
Getting your vehicle and
loved ones over very rough terrain takes patience, practice,
preparation, and planning. Remember the 7
P's:
Proper
Prior
Planning
Prevents
Piss
Poor
Performance. Once on
the trail, patience, diligence and finesse really take over.
For example: the obstacle called the "Launch Pad" is very
interesting. When going from east to west, you've worked
your way over Poison Spider Mesa, then on the rock through
the trees and sand to have actually found the first Golden
Spikepainted on the rock. Right about the time you get on
the slick rock searching for the next spike is a deep, steep
"scooped out" section of slick rock. The sands of time have
left a deep swirl in the rock.
Looking
down into the bottom you see where the bumpers of long
wheel base vehicles have ground the rock when starting
to come out. Gulp! Be cool here. You should already be
in low range anyway--manual trans--select 1st gear,
ease off the clutch completely, left foot on the floor
gently drive straight down into the bottom. Depending
on the final drive ratio light braking may be
required. DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKES! Lightly drag
them to keep the tires from sliding just slowing the
rig enough.
Automatic
transmission--select 1st gear, gently ease down slope and
aim straight to the bottom. Have a light drag on the brakes
to maintain control, and slowly enter the hole. DON'T LET
THE TIRES SLIDE OR SKID, a light chirp is ok, but keep
enough forward progress to let the tires roll. You will get
better traction.
On slick rock, a spinning
tire or a skidding tire is no good, you get no traction that
way. Both types transmission, once in the bottom, aim the
rig straight up, apply moderate throttle to get initial
momentum. About half way up (just before the tires start to
bark, chirp, spin), back off the throttle just enough to
keep from chirping the tires, and slowly ease over the
crest. You might want to have someone over on the up side to
help you decide where to exit because all you see is sky for
what seems the longest time! There is a little bump right at
the top on the west side that can be a problem if coming out
too fast. It is a wake up call for those who think that the
pad is finished. The front end can catch air here and
finesse and cool are required here. Some people panic when
the front end comes off the ground and lean forward pushing
the gas pedal down causing a "wheelie."
Sit
back in the seat, be one with the vehicle and don't
forget to breathe. Follow through with quiet finesse
and get to the top, park then calmly get out of the
rig and get the high fives you deserve. Just don't let
them see your knees knocking!
Of course, you have to get
to the trailhead. Once you've reached the trailhead, you
usually partake in the age-old ritual of "airing down"--the
art of letting enough air out of the tires to get that soft
ride and great traction. Getting the tires squishy is indeed
an art. It depends what type of trail and how much equipment
I have as to what pressure I will run. With bigger rigs and
heavy loads, one must be careful how low to go. An old
flat-fender running 35's, with two people, a cooler and some
extra parts can get away with 8 to 10 psi. A full-size
Blazer running 235's with a family of four, loaded with
camping gear, water, extra gas, two coolers and a partridge
in a pear tree will not be able to air down as much, maybe
18 to 20 psi. See Harry Lewellyn's great article about
airing down and tires. Generally with my tires that are
about a 33 x 11.5R16 (285/75R16), I usually run about 12 to
18 psi depending on the trail I am on.
After
you are squishy in the tires, have met all the other
folks in your group, it is time to go
4-wheeling!
Once you have negotiated
the "launch pad," there are a few neat trail sections, like
"Sky-Line Drive." There is a really great view at the top
right near the pole! Your trail leader (usually Dan Mick)
has already started up and the convoy follows. Be very
deliberate and slow. Do not spin the tires. A little chirp
is ok now and then, but do not spin the tires.
Sit back in the seat, enjoy the view and remember to
breathe! Once on top, get out and walk over to check the
downside and, when ready, proceed. Again, be very slow
and deliberate. Make sure the transfer case and
transmission are fully in gear, feet flat on the floor and,
with some light braking, drive down.
As with any steep descent,
keep a steady pace. Sometimes the rear of the vehicle will
slide around a little. Give the throttle a little more gas
and straighten the rig out. This happens on Red Cone
(Colorado trail) a lot because of the loose surface. This is
where some people panic and jam on the brakes. Wrong. It is
usually best to get the rig aligned down slope quickly with
a little gas then back off to get control again. Remember
always go straight up and straight down a slope when
possible. I have had the transfer case jump out of gear on
occasion and it is a very scary situation. If you anticipate
it when in the rough stuff, then when/if it happens you can
act to correct the problem. Notice I said act, not react.
It's like when the "lurch" happens!
The lurch happens when the
two tires that are giving resistance on the descent slide or
catch air. By now we have the understanding that 4WD is not
4WD unless you have lockers. So, there are usually only two
tires holding the rig back. When they hit the loose stuff or
find air, the other two tires which are static and just
rolling along will not help to keep the rig from moving
forward very quickly. This "lurch" forward a few feet is a
bit unnerving unless it is anticipated.
On
loose trails, wet, rocky, sandy, soft slick rock, etc,
i.e., almost any trail, the lurch is a common thing.
The thing to do is not panic and jam on the clutch or
brakes like at a stop light. When going through such
sections expect it and drag the brakes lightly or
engage the lockers.
It is quite a sight to see
a tire counter rotate with excess torque when descending
steep slopes. The tire will actually rotate against the
direction or travel because the axle is flexed (torqued) so
much to hold the rig back that, when loose terrain is
encountered, the axle will flex back to the normal torque
(straight) position, rotating the tire backwards.
The reason I've picked
several obstacles on Golden Spike trail is because it has a
large variety of terrain. These are similar to the hints
that I've posted elsewhere but taken to a higher degree of
difficulty.
The
"Golden Crack" thankfully has been cleaned out! For a
while, it was getting full of rocks and debris from
itinerant 4-wheelers who didn't have the skill or rig
to negotiate it properly. KEEP THE CRACK
EMPTY!
It is just like any
agricultural ditch or log crossing on any other trail, just
a bit wider and deeper! Like any of these type of obstacles,
slowly enter at an angle so that only one tire at a time
drops into the gap. Some bumpers may grind here but you do
have strong steel up front, don't you? Let the other three
push, then pull the one tire through. Be very deliberate.
For automatic transmission, use left foot braking here. It
gives you a greater amount of control.
For
sticks, you may have too high gearing to go slow
enough. Ease into it a centimeter at a time. If you
have the gears, light braking and lockers help; if
not, play the clutch easily. Most rigs will pull The
Crack with the help of having to use the gas when
clutching. Don't burn the clutch.
At some point, one or two
tires will gain a lot of air--great photo op--so here is
where lockers really help. Do not panic when the rig gets
air and begins to teeter. It is expected here, and again,
remember to breathe; sit back in the seat and let the rig do
its stuff. Inching forward, the front end will come down and
the back end will come across perhaps with a little grind on
the back bumper. It is fun to sometimes "walk" the crack to
the north, then exit, but that is gonzo and requires lots of
practice. You literally turn the rig north halfway through
the crack and split the crack. Hmmm, interesting, you say! I
will leave that for another day!
I think you get the point
of this article! The finesse of 4-wheeling is critical when
getting on these tough trails. I like to say, "Go as slow as
possible, but as fast as necessary!" Having the proper
gearing and a well set-up rig is key to this type of
4-wheeling. Practice, practice, practice, that's all I can
say. It is very much different than the Louisiana gumbo mud,
the Rocky Mountain rocks, the East Coast leaf strewn paths
and the California Sierras.
©Bill Burke’s 4-Wheeling America LLC
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Are
You a Yahoo
The
Nuances of Off-Highway Driving
True
Life Bonehead Experiences: Part I
True
Life Bonehead Experiences: Part II
Off-Highway,
Off-Road, Off Your Rocker: on Tread Lightly! and how to
deal with those who don't
Beyond
Tool Kits in Field
Repairs
Trail
Ethics
Using
the Hi-Lift Jack
Driving
with Air Lockers
Five
Safety Tips When Taking Your Vehicle
Off-Highway
Five
More Safety Tips
Aftermarket
Accessories, Part I: Always Be Prepared to Get
Unstuck
Aftermarket
Accessories, Part II: Always Be Prepared to Get Unstuck,
The Winch
Aftermarket
Accessories, Part III: Tired of Your
Tires?
Easy
Tire Chains
Winter
Driving Tips for On- and Off-Highway
Easter
Jeep Safari Part I
Easter
Jeep Safari Part II
4-Wheeling
from the Heart
A
Photo Essay
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Bill
Burke's 4-Wheeling America LLC
